How to darken a birch gunstock

Last updated on November 16th, 2022 at 08:56 am

How to refinish a birch gunstock

The initial step is to remove the old finish. The majority of people use citrus strips, which are chemical strippers. There are two explanations for stripers. The first is that it works, and the second is that it removes the finish without damaging any timber as sanding does.

The second step is to repair any dents or scratches. Dents are usually the lesser of two evils, and you can steam out. Hot iron and a damp paper towel will suffice in most cases. Place a corner of a wet paper towel three layers thick over the dent.

Let it sizzle and steam for about 5 seconds after pressing the hot iron down on it (you only need to utilize the tip, not the entire stock). If the finish is waterproof, such as urethane, you must remove it from the bottom of the dent; however, if the finish is oil, this is not as critical.

Use stains or dies blended with water or alcohol to create a stain. Staining birch might be a better option.

The final step is to apply the clear coat.

More straightforwardly, the steps are as follows:

1. Remove the previous finish.
2. Use an old steam iron and a 100% cotton towel with a lot of water to steam out dents.
3. Use 0000 steel wool to smooth up the surface (saturated with Boiled Linseed Oil).
4. Use a lint-free towel to buff-hard.
5. Use stain to achieve the desired hue (Birch is not as simple to stain as walnut-so you may have to apply various applications). 
6. Buff hard once more.
7. Apply a second hand-rubbed application of BLO and buff with a cloth.

How do you darken a birch?

To elevate the grain and leave a rougher surface for more color to the lodge, wet the wood with water before spreading the stain. Because you must let the wood cure for this approach to function, it adds an extra step.

By utilizing a water-based stain, you may reduce the operation to just one stage. The grain will rise when you wipe off the excess, and the coloring will be darker.

If you try to sand the stain smoothly, you’ll undoubtedly sand through it. Instead, use the first coat of finish to “bury” the high grain. After this coat has dried, sand it smooth.

Instead of using an oil stain, try dye. Dyes come in liquid form (typically dubbed non-grain-raising) and powder form (which you dissolve in a liquid). Dense woods can be as black as possible by using a more excellent dye-to-liquid ratio or applying repeated layers. Because no build is available, there is no chance of separation at the stain level.

You won’t get a decent grain definition if you spray the color and don’t wipe it off. To improve grain definition, apply an oil stain after the dye has dried — or over the sealant application — and wipe off the excess.

Spray a toner between finish applications, usually after the sealer coat, and apply a stain using any following processes. A toner is a pigment or dye sprayed on the wood after applying it to the finish. The stain will darken the color without making it messy. The coloration will become muddy as a result of the stain. As a result, the majority of toning is complete with dye.

Apply a glaze after staining and sealing the wood: This is an oil or water-based stain thickened. It has been consolidated to make it easier to manage and prevent running on vertical surfaces. To darken the surface, leave a little glaze on it.

Brushing or spraying glaze on the wood and then thinning it with a brush is the easiest way to apply it evenly. It will take some effort to do this without leaving visible brush marks. Because glazes are constantly colored, they can’t but muddy the wood.

Toning is usually the preferred method of deepening or altering a color due to the difficulty of having a glaze brushed out uniformly. If you don’t spray, though, glazing is helpful.

For highlighting, glazing is more effective. Retain some of the colorings in recesses to darken them or wipe them off in certain sections to make figure patterns.

What kind of wood is Gunstock?

Walnut is the most used wood for gun stocks. While walnut is the most popular gunstock wood, other woods such as maple, myrtle, birch, and mesquite are also helpful. On the other hand, different woods can make rifle stocks attractive and practical.

One of the most popular varieties of wood for gun blanks is English walnut. Although all walnuts are hardwood, English walnuts are known for being possible to manage, making them popular among stock builders. The dark mineral lines and marbling throughout the wood, known as marble cake, appeal to those who enjoy English walnut. The most significant marble cake effect in English walnut is flat saw cuts.

Tiger, spalted, fiddleback, and burl myrtle is a slow-growing trees with various interesting wood patterns. Although less common than walnut, myrtle is also helpful for gun stocks. It’s a type of wood common in Southwest Oregon and Northwestern California. Myrtle comes in different colors, from light to dark.

Both red maple and sugar maple are valuable to make gun stocks. Although some people refer to red maple as “soft,” it is equally as hard as black walnut. It is not, however, as hard as sugar maple. Bowling pins also come from sugar maple. Sugar maple is preferred by individuals who seek checkering or elevated carvings, whereas red maple is known for its striping and curling patterns.

Minwax oil-based staining

Minwax Wood Finish is an infiltrating oil-based wood stain that adds rich color and highlights the natural wood grain.

To avoid blotchiness, apply a coat of Minwax Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner beforehand.

Wipe up any excess stain that did not infiltrate the surface in the direction of the wood grain to ensure your top coat adheres properly.

Carefully test the stain on an inconspicuous spot or a scrap piece of wood before starting your job to ensure the desired hue.

Water-based staining

Water-based stains work best under water-based finishes since oil or varnish stains don’t bond well with these finishes unless they’ve been allowed to dry for a week or more. On the other hand, water-based stains are more difficult to apply since they lift the wood grain and dry quickly.

Use a foam brush, a latex paint pad applicator, or spray.

Apply Top Coats liberally in the direction of the grain, using smooth, equal strokes. Make sure you have enough material to make a wet film. Avoid over-brushing.

Water based staining advantages 

They are less odoriferous than oil-based stains.

Because they dry faster, you can stain and finish in one day.

Cleaning is as easy as using soap and water.

A more comprehensive choice of bright stain colors is available.

Aniline dye staining

Aniline Dye Stain is a dry powder that produces a stain with remarkable clarity, color, and grain accentuation. An aniline dye that dissolves in water is a deep infiltrating stain with excellent lightfastness. Aniline dyes are a different way to finish your project. These translucent dyes add rich color without distorting the grain, whether in wood tones or bright hues.

Aniline dye is a powder that you need to dissolve in water, alcohol, or petroleum solvents, based on the recipe. Use a sponge, a low lint or cotton rag, a brush, or a spray gun to mix the wood dye with water or isopropyl alcohol and apply it with your preferred tool: a sponge, a low lint or cotton rag, a brush, or a spray gun. 

Make sure to soak all areas thoroughly. Allow 2-7 minutes for wood dye products to penetrate the wood to obtain a rich, deep color. The deeper the hue, the longer the dye stain can enter the wood. Unless it’s intended, don’t let it dry entirely without wiping away any extra discoloration, as this could result in lap lines.