Characteristics of waterlox
Waterlox provides the “best of both worlds” advantages. Raw oils, for example, penetrate wood but offer little meaningful protection to the substrate. Furthermore, natural oil finishes must be re-coated regularly. Urethane coatings sit on top of the surface, resemble plastic, are fragile, and eventually break if punctured. Waterlox is genuinely unrivaled since it penetrates like raw oil while simultaneously protecting and loving the wood without becoming frail or seeming plastic.
Waterlox coatings permeate the wood’s pores and build up to provide a protective and strengthening coating. Most importantly, they are less difficult to maintain and re-coat. Waterlox’s exceptional finishes wouldn’t be achievable without tung oil.
Characteristics of tung oil
The viscosity of tung oil is higher than that of other vegetable oils. The presence of eleostearic acid distinguishes it. This oil’s unique drying speed and exceptional water resistance have made it essential in current varnish production. It’s also resistant to alkali and chemicals, though raw tung oil tends to wrinkle when dry, limiting its use in paints. As a result, it’s perfect for substituting other oils, including linseed, soybean, perilla, and dehydrated castor oil, for tung oil.
When to use waterlox instead of tung oil
While Waterlox Original Tung Oil finishes comprise Tung Oil, a great drying oil, they are entirely cooked varnishes that cure faster and form permanent coatings robust enough to walk on and withstand daily wear. The Waterlox Original Tung oil finishes are also resistant to water and chemicals (alcohol and alkali).
When to use tung oil instead of waterlox
Wood’s color, richness, and texture are enhanced with Waterlox Original. It’s a unique blend of Tung Oil and resin that creates a rich, hand-rubbed finish that’s long-lasting and simple to maintain. When using Waterlox Original Finishes, a Waterlox sealer is necessary.
Tung oil in its purest form has a mild aroma (unless you thin it with citrus solvent, not citrus cleaner, and it smells great). It is not cheap, but it is considerably less expensive than Waterlox, and you can safely store it in an uncovered container.
Waterlox makes several different products, each with a varied spread rate. The two main types are Buffer Applied Coatings and Wet Applied Coatings (brush/pad).
The spread rate or coverage varies depending on the Waterlox product, for example, using the formula below:
ORIGINAL Formula – Wet Applied:
- 500 sq. ft. per gallon per coat
- 125 sq. ft. per quart per coat
- Six sq. ft. per 2 oz. sample per coat
UNIVERSAL Tung Oil Sealer – Buffer Applied
- 3200-4000 sq. ft. per gallon per coat
- 600-800 sq. ft. per quart per coat
- 300-400 sq. ft. per pint per coat
- 150-200 sq. ft. per half a pint per coat
- 25-30 sq. ft. per 2 oz. sample per coat
Tung oil coverage
Tung oil will cover 400 square feet with one gallon. You may require up to 5 coats, based on how porous the surface is. For example, a 400-square-foot area would require more than 2 gallons of oil and solvent (for thinning) or 5 gallons of our pre-thinned choices. Below are some further details:
PURE Tung Oil – Wet Applied:
- 400-500 sq. ft. per gallon per coat
- 100-125 sq. ft. per quart per coat
- 50-52.5 sq. ft. per pint per coat
- 25-31.25 sq. ft. per half a pint per coat
Is waterlox better than tung oil?
Tung oil is superior to waterlox. Waterlox and pure tung oil take four weeks or longer to “cure,” which could be a problem for you and your sawmill. Just make sure that the people at the mill are aware of the consequences of this information.
Waterlox includes resins and has a foul odor; therefore, saving this expensive product necessitates finding a technique to preserve the unused fraction with as little air as possible in the container.
Tung oil in its purest form has a mild odor (unless you thin it with citrus solvent [not citrus cleaner], in which case it smells great). It is not cheap, but it is less expensive than Waterlox, and you can store it in an open container without issue.
In this scenario, you can use pure tung oil diluted with a citrus solvent. It applies smoothly, and you can buff it to a soft sheen after curing.
Is waterlox the same as tung oil?
Tung oil has traditionally been associated with waterlox. And this is because the company’s owner has claimed that Waterlox has been tung oil since at least 1982. However, it is possible to determine from the specialist experts who completed the finish on two different calls to the corporation. Both technicians (described as “chemists”) can affirm that Waterlox is varnish.
Unlike tung oil, Waterlox is not suitable for a frequently used table. Waterlox has the same features as other resin-based finishes, which means it may be scratched/flaked and refinished with a strong odor. (It says tung oil, but it’s a baked varnish, not an oil finish.)
PolyWhey is one bullet-proof, quick-drying, odorless poly finish strongly suggested as the best water-based finish in terms of low smell and durability. BUT there’s a catch: water-based finishes don’t bring out the finest in walnut wood and can even give it a grey tint.
Given these factors, you should probably choose from various oil-based finishes, including pure tung oil.
Can waterlox be applied over tung oil?
Waterlox ORIGINAL brings out the natural beauty of wood by enhancing its color, richness, and texture. It’s a unique blend of Tung Oil and resin that creates a rich, hand-rubbed finish that’s long-lasting and simple to maintain. When using Waterlox ORIGINAL Finishes, a Waterlox sealer is necessary.
You can apply a coat or two of oil-based polyurethane for added durability. It is entirely compatible with cured tung oil (or linseed oil or other drying oil). Apply three coats, one coat for each layer.
What does waterlox do to wood?
Waterlox Original Tung Oil products are tung oil-based wood finishes that have been resin-modified. The tung oil has the best penetrating and drying properties. At the same time, the resin enables the coatings to form a water-resistant and elastic surface that can withstand foot traffic and regular home spills.
Waterlox, unlike other wood treatments, provides the “best of both worlds” benefits. Raw oils, for example, penetrate wood but offer little meaningful protection to the substrate. Furthermore, natural oil finishes must be re-coated regularly. Urethane coatings sit on top of the surface, resemble plastic, are fragile, and eventually break if punctured.
In summary, Tung oil may be a better option because waterlox leaves a residue that can attract dirt and grime. Tung oil has no such issue but has a harder time merging with wood, making it tougher for a novice to use. Waterlox’s ease of use, ease of use, and ease of cleaning are its selling points.